Understanding the Three Types of Hyperpigmentation
Melasma
Melasma often appears as symmetrical patches of grey-brown pigmentation, most commonly on the cheeks, upper lip and forehead. It is strongly associated with hormonal fluctuation, including oral contraceptive use and pregnancy, and is significantly worsened by UV exposure. Melasma is the most treatment-resistant form of hyperpigmentation because its hormonal driver means it tends to recur without ongoing maintenance.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
PIH appears as flat, darkened marks at the site of previous inflammation, acne, injury or skin trauma. It occurs when inflammation triggers an abnormal increase in melanin production. The Fitzpatrick scale describes how different skin tones respond to sun exposure, ranging from very fair to deeper skin tones. It can be a useful reference when building a pigmentation routine, as some skin tones may be more prone to visible post-blemish marks or sensitivity to certain actives. PIH can persist for months or years without targeted treatment. Actives used to target PIH include vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid and tyrosinase inhibitors such as arbutin.
UV-Induced Sun Damage
Chronic UV exposure causes diffuse and focal pigmentation changes, including solar lentigines (sunspots) and general uneven tone. Unlike melasma, UV-induced pigmentation often responds well to targeted topical treatment combined with strict photoprotection. The combination of a vitamin C antioxidant serum with a tyrosinase inhibitor - an ingredient that slows down the enzyme responsible for melanin production in the skin - and regular SPF 50+ provides an evidence-based protocol for both treating existing UV-induced pigmentation and preventing new deposits.
How Hyperpigmentation Treatment Works
All effective hyperpigmentation treatments work through one or more of the following mechanisms: inhibiting tyrosinase activity to prevent new melanin synthesis, accelerating cellular turnover to shed pigmented cells from the surface more rapidly, neutralising the oxidative stress that stimulates melanin production, or physically protecting the skin from the UV exposure that triggers and worsens all three pigmentation types.
Tyrosinase is an enzyme in the skin involved in the production of melanin. Ingredients such as arbutin work by inhibiting tyrosinase, which helps slow down the process of new pigmentation forming. This is why tyrosinase inhibitors are a core part of most clinical hyperpigmentation protocols.
The most effective protocols combine multiple mechanisms. No single active addresses all the drivers of hyperpigmentation simultaneously, which is why structured systems such as the Obagi Nu-Derm Fx tend to outperform individual products used in isolation.
Clinical Protocols by Pigmentation Type
Melasma Protocol
• Morning: SPF 50+ applied generously and reapplied every two hours in UV conditions.
• Morning: SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic for antioxidant protection against UV-generated melanin stimulation.
• Evening: Obagi Clear Fx (arbutin) to target pigmentation.
• Evening: Obagi Blend Fx to combine brightening and cellular renewal.
• Weekly: Gentle chemical exfoliation to accelerate pigment shedding.
PIH Protocol
• Morning: Vitamin C serum (Obagi Professional-C or SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic) for antioxidant support.
• Morning: SPF 50+ to prevent PIH darkening under UV.
• Evening: Azelaic acid or niacinamide to reduce melanin transfer to keratinocytes.
• Evening: Retinoid to accelerate cellular turnover and surface shedding of pigmented cells.
• Monthly: Professional microneedling or chemical peel to accelerate correction, with Medik8 Post-Treatment Kit for recovery.
Sun Damage Protocol
• Morning: SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic or Obagi Professional-C Serum 15%.
• Morning: SPF 50+ as a non-negotiable daily step.
• Evening: Obagi-C Fx Clarifying Serum combined with a retinoid.
• Ongoing: Obagi Nu-Derm Fx system for cases involving extensive diffuse sun damage.
Skin Type Considerations: Fitzpatrick I to VI
Darker skin tones require particular care when selecting hyperpigmentation treatments. Aggressive exfoliation or high-concentration vitamin C can itself trigger PIH, so a more gradual approach is recommended. For those with deeper skin tones, starting with lower-concentration vitamin C, niacinamide-led routines and consistent SPF is advisable before introducing stronger brightening actives.
Any professional treatment such as chemical peels or lasers must be selected specifically for darker skin types to avoid post-treatment hyperpigmentation. Professional consultation before treatment selection is strongly advised in these cases.
Explore hyperpigmentation treatments at SKINSTATION
The following options are available at SKINSTATION as part of a targeted hyperpigmentation routine. Book a complimentary a virtual consultation today to receive personalised guidance on building a protocol suited to your pigmentation type and skin tone.
